Explore the historic Islands around Sydney Harbour
77Despite their rich and interesting past, the islands located in one of the world’s premier harbours are generally unknown and overlooked. Xavier Jefferson, however, has experienced the Sydney Harbour Islands in a different way, looking forward to a new beginning and flourishing in the area.
There are eight islands in Sydney Harbour – remaining from 14 original islands. The other islands – Glebe, Berry, Darling, Garden and Bennelong Islands, have all been reattached to the mainland, while the smallest island, Spectacle Island, is attached by a sandy shoal.
The eight remaining islands, running from the Manly end of Sydney Harbour towards the Bridge, are as follows: Shark, Clarke, Fort Denison, Goat, Cockatoo, Spectacle, Snapper and Rodd Islands. The largest island, Cockatoo, is the foundation of what is expected to be a renaissance of harbour island life.
Fort Denison
Fort Denison is the best known of the harbour islands and has been accessible to the public since 1992. One of its most notable attractions, Martello Tower, is now a museum of the island’s history and is only accessible by guided tour. Besides the museum, visitors can also spend the day riding the ferry, going for walks and eating at the island café. Tourists should note that no private crafts or water taxis are allowed on to land on Fort Denison.
The history of Fort Denison is very Australian and very amusing. Prior to European settlement, the island was known as Mat-te-wany-e and the home of an indigenous population. In the 18th century, it was used largely as a haven for convicts and criminals. In the 1850s, however, it was fortified in order to protect Australians from Russians during the Crimean war. Much to the Australian’s surprise, the Russians never made an appearance.
Martello Tower is reportedly the last Martello built by the British Empire. Though it was never fully functional (three muzzle canons installed prior to its completion never worked), it does have historical significance. Its windows that prevented it from hitting passing ships and too-powerful gun recoil rendered it a bit of a failure. Luckily, it has only come under fire once – friendly fire from the USS Chicago responding to Japanese submarines.
To add to its quite amusing history is another anecdote. In 1900, visiting officer Charles Lightoller hoisted a Boer flag to the top of the tower in a prank. His aim? To make those living in Sydney think a raiding party had taken over the fort. Lightoller accepted blame and reproach for his actions. He would go on to have an even bigger claim to fame as the most senior officer to survive the fatal Titanic journey of 1912.
Nowadays, Fort Denison is an extremely popular tourist destination. Its unique views of the Bridge, Opera House and the prime minister’s residence at Kirribilli House renders it an awe-inspiring experience. Some tourists spend time on the island touring and lunching in the city and on the harbour. And many visitors also choose the island as the site of special events such as corporate gatherings and weddings.
Getting to and from the island can be tricky. Captain Cook and Matilda Cruises run the only services to and from the island from Circular Quay and King St. Wharf. The fee of the ferry itself is $17 with an additional $10 cost for the tour. The island café is managed by Tailored Events Catering.
Fort Denison Cannon Firing at 1pm
Cockatoo Island
In March of 2008, the Sydney Harbour Trust opened the Cockatoo Island campground. The world’s only campground located in a metropolitan center, it is located on the northern part of the island. It has a harbour frontage with great views of Hunters Hill and the Parramatta River.
With a total of 135 campsites that hold
four campers each, the Sidney Harbour Trust campground has a kitchen facility,
toilets and shower blocks. Its most
modern feature? Internet access. Visitors should also note that it is entirely
handicap accessible. If camping is not your thing you will find many other Sydney Accommodation nsw options avaible in the city and surrounds.
The campground’s opening was just one stage in a total restoration project of the island in order to render it a more useful part of the harbour. Seeing the island today, it is hard to believe that in 1999 the site was essentially chaos, left to bandits with boats. It was not until 1999 that the Sydney Harbour trust took over its management and began to restore it.
Cockatoo Island has a long history of settlement. Its original inhabitants – the Aboriginal tribes of Sydney’s coastal region – were largely displaced and integrated when the first colony appeared on the island in 1838. This initial colony was meant to serve as a home for the most despicable convicts and criminals of Norfolk Island. Though much has changed on Cockatoo throughout the years, visitors can still visit the houses, silos and buildings erected by the convicts, rendering it an important historical and heritage site for Sydney and Australia.
In 1871, the island began to be used as a reform school. The boys’ reform school took the form of a naval college. And even though the success of this Henry Parkes institution is little know, it was really a quite promising school. The girls’ school met more challenges and was closed in 1888 when girls wearing few clothes were caught taunting “reformed” boys. The boys’ school, however, remained open until 1911.
During the same years, the islands turned into a center of Australian shipbuilding, the first of its two dry docks being built in 1857. They remained so until the island dockyards closed in the year 1992.
During World War I, 4000 men were sent to the island to work towards the creation of an Australian merchant and military navy. By the time World War II rolled around, the island served as the only place in the South Pacific open for wounded ships in need of repair. American ships would come to take full advantage of this fact, sending a number of ships to Cockatoo before returning them to San Francisco. In the early 1930s, the island was also used for aircraft building, design and maintenance. Though this period was short-lived, it was important. At one point, Charles Kingsford Smith was even able to arrive on Cockatoo Island with a damaged aircraft while going entirely unnoticed.
Today, Cockatoo Island is most noted for its blend of convict construction and industrial buildings. It is as though its history has been pieced together by layers and layers of past creations and infrastructure. Even the relics of the shipbuilding industry can be found, forming a sort of accidental sculpture garden.
In March of 2005, the island was re-opened to the public with the “Cockatoo Island 2005 Festival.” The event was attended by more than 20,000 people and is the originator of the idea for the aforementioned campground.
In the years that have followed, Cockatoo has grown and flourished. Its campground is accompanied by other accommodations in the restored buildings of the city and new developments as well. In recent years, 30 boutique apartments have been opened to the public as well.
Food and drink have also become more readily available on the island, thanks in large part to the Cockatoo Island Café located on the eastern size of the island. Visitors can enjoy a meal and then take a long walk across the tops of the structures of the islands. Getting to and from the island has also been made easier, with ferry services extending hours and operating with more frequency. A number of cultural events have taken place and continue to be planned as well. The Sydney Biennale, a contemporary art exhibition, took place there in 2008 and will do so again in 2010.
The mixture of convict heritage and industrial relics render Cockatoo a real gem. It is an ideal background for contemporary art shows, concerts and business events.
Some have argued that Cockatoo Island’s renaissance has returned some of Sydney’s luster that was largely lost following the 2000 Olympics. It is sure to continue to grow and become a popular destination for tourists and artists.
Shark Island
Shark Island is located just off of the short of Rose Bay, the harbour’s most easterly island. Said to resemble a shark, it is an ideal spot for picnics and time spent outdoors. Its pavilion provides a great look at the Bridge and the Opera House and is a popular spot for wedding ceremonies. It is a great place to watch the Sydney to Hobart yacht race as well.
The island can be reached by a “tinny” or even by kayak from Rose Bay. Those interested in visiting should note permit requirements from Cadmans Cottage in the Rocks (www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au). Matilda Cruises also run daily ferry services ($16 in price) to and from the island and Circular Quay or Darling Harbour.
Though in 1879 Shark Island was set aside as a reserve, it was turned into an Animal Quarantine station and naval depot store. It has never been useful for shipping due to the shallow waters that surround it. In 1975, it changed hands to the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service, eventually becoming part of the Sydney Harbour National Park.
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wannabwestern Level 3 Commenter 2 years ago
Fascinating, and beautiful pics of the Sydney Harbor Islands! Thanks for the enlightening read. This is very well-done. Cheers!